Seaswirl

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"A" is the tube sleeve that actually rotates. "B" locks the entire assembly together and do not move when "A" is rotating. A 1 1/2" black lockline nozzle attaches to both "A" and "B". The black housing is just a project box found at electronic stores.  I would imagine about $10.</div> <div> Picture 2: Six plastic caps (for aesthetics) and screws are removed from the bottom of the unit to open it. Then the unit is flipped right-side up and top cover is slightly offset to expose the motor mount screws. "A" shows two screws and two more screws are on opposite side.  Those are removed the same way in offsetting the top cover.</div> <bR> <div> <IMG SRC="20605280.jpg" border=0 width="261" height="296" ALIGN="BOTTOM" HSPACE="0" VSPACE="0">   <IMG SRC="208132a0.jpg" border=0 width="275" height="298" ALIGN="BOTTOM" HSPACE="0" VSPACE="0"></div> <div> Left picture: The bottom cover of the unit. The white parts are epoxied down and are the motor mounts. The hole toward the top is where the rotating tube goes through.</div> <div> Picture 3: "A" is the motor. "B" (white part) is top piece of the motor mount. The entire "B" and motor are now loose, only connected by the linkages to "C".  "C" is some type of plastic. Not irrigation black ABS, now sure what it is.  This is what actually rotates. "D" are the plastic caps mentioned in Picture 2.</div> <bR> <div> <IMG SRC="20b3bfa0.jpg" border=0 width="315" height="250" ALIGN="BOTTOM" HSPACE="0" VSPACE="0">   <IMG SRC="20d45fb0.jpg" border=0 width="325" height="251" ALIGN="BOTTOM" HSPACE="0" VSPACE="0"></div> <div> Same as Picture 3, just from an angle.  The right picture is a close up tag on the motor.</div> <bR> <div> <IMG SRC="216421e0.jpg" border=0 width="322" height="286" ALIGN="BOTTOM" HSPACE="0" VSPACE="0">   <IMG SRC="217591d0.jpg" border=0 width="345" height="285" ALIGN="BOTTOM" HSPACE="0" VSPACE="0"></div> <div> Linkages used on controlling the back and forth movements.  Looks like typical stuff from remote control cars or planes found at hobby shops.</div> <bR> <div> <IMG SRC="21825360.jpg" border=0 width="293" height="310" ALIGN="BOTTOM" HSPACE="0" VSPACE="0">   <IMG SRC="21950370.jpg" border=0 width="336" height="311" ALIGN="BOTTOM" HSPACE="0" VSPACE="0"></div> <div> Left picture is part "C" in Picture 3 above. Right picture is with the rotating shaft removed.  This part is about 4". With thread on top and bottom.  The threaded end in this pic is where the outlet is.  It is where "B" in Picture 1 screws onto. </div> <bR> <div> <IMG SRC="21a32450.jpg" border=0 width="306" height="325" ALIGN="BOTTOM" HSPACE="0" VSPACE="0">   <IMG SRC="21b2a420.jpg" border=0 width="298" height="322" ALIGN="BOTTOM" HSPACE="0" VSPACE="0"></div> <div> Picture 4: "A" is the silver plate at the bottom and is removable. In between "A" and "B", the silver locking ring seems to be wedged-in and wouldn't budge no matter what I do to it.  "B", the white part, is just regular PVC, acting as a spacer, maybe 3/4" also, but a through slit is cut.  So, it can slide onto "C", the grey threaded PVC.</div> <div> The right pic is just a view straight down the center.  This grey PVC nipple is about 4.5".  Not commonly found size.  Probably recut and tapped themselves.  It has 3 o-rings on it, sitting in recess.  It is coated heavily with transparent grease, so "C" in Picture 3 can rotate freely on it.</div> <bR> <div> <IMG SRC="214685f0.jpg" border=0 width="360" height="351" ALIGN="BOTTOM" HSPACE="0" VSPACE="0">   <IMG SRC="21568680.jpg" border=0 width="360" height="360" ALIGN="BOTTOM" HSPACE="0" VSPACE="0"></div> <div> Just two more pictures of the center PVC shaft.</div> <bR> <div> Seaswirl will not leak because it is a straight-through design.  Very simple and the only thing I can see failing is just wear over time on the shaft due to insufficient grease.  Seaswirl say they will be able to tell if the unit was used under stronger than designed water flow. I think they would be checking on the ball linkages.  If the water is too strong, the linkages will wear irregularly.  All the parts (except motor) should be no more than $30.  Similar motor from the same company is about $10.  So the whole thing is max at $40.</div> <bR> <div> <IMG SRC="21fb5480.jpg" border=0 width="437" height="328" ALIGN="BOTTOM" HSPACE="0" VSPACE="0"></div> <div> (Aug 2002) The left unit was the preliminary DIY Sea Swirl design.  Since each unit will sit on the top lip of my acrylic tank, it was purposely made narrower than the original.   All linkages were found at a local remote control toy shop.  The pipes and fittings were obtained from Home Depot.  The clear box was made from scratch using acrylic panels; cut, drilled, thinned.... It permits lighting to penetrate through and pass the DIY unit.  The  original black unit blocked off quite a bit of light which is precious in a reef tank.  The initial motor used was from Cramer Company.  The motor's specs looked great on paper; providing about 10-12 lbs of torque/in.  However, almost all of the test motors failed after 2 weeks of use.  I ended up using Autotrol motor, only sold by Sea Swirl at $35 each.</div> <div> The most trickest step in making this project is to find the correct washer and  cutting the groove on the PVC nipple.  I ended up using a dremel with a ball cutter and rotated the nipple on a vise to make the necessary cut.</div> <div> Whew...finally done creating this secret page....  ;-)</div> <div>  <A HREF="id57.htm" TARGET="_top" TITLE="DIY Seaswirl"><U>Well...now's the link to the end result.....</U></A></div> <bR> </td> </tr></table></body>