|
Nano Tank
Nano Tank
Old setup (Dec 2000- April 2003)- This was an 5g acrylic tank I bought originally for freshwater puffers. The kit cost about $40 and came with undergravel filter and an air pump. After several months, I converted it into a nano reef. I added a Marineland Penguin (without filter pad) for water movement. Lighting was provided by three power compacts. Two 28W bulbs, with one daylight and one actinic. The third bulb is an 8W daylight bulb. I needed the small bulb for better light spread since the tank is tapered on the front with three sides.
Since the tank was intended to keep different kinds of non-photosynthetic gorgonians, I kept the tank with minimal fitration. I add a mixture of three different micron size golden pearls at least twice a day. Every feeding is about 1/4 - 1/2 teaspoon. The excess food matter is either eaten by the hugh number of copepods and amphipods or taken care of by the live rocks. Even though it never ate any prepared food, the small tank actually had enough food to support a small Copperband butterfly.
5g Nano-reef tank:
Sept 2001
Mar 2002
New setup (April 2003- Present)- I've decided to get a slightly bigger tank with stronger lighting
10g Nano-reef tank:
I build the hood with some left over 3/4" oak plywood and molding from another project.
In the hood, I added two 28W actinic power compacts and a Lights of America 65W light model 9266. Supposedly it uses 65W with 300W worth of light output. Numerous hobbyists ultilize this light to grow macro-algae in their sumps. The LOA light cost around $35-$40 at Home Depot. However, since it was designed to be mounted outdoors as a flood light, minor modifications were needed to make everything fit inside the 10g canopy.
Two main modifications were needed:
1.) The light is enclosed in a huge housing (too big when used in a nano) and must be removed.
2.) The unit has two wires for AC input and cannot be connected directly to a light timer.
To solve the above problems, the unit was basically gutted. The electronic ballast, circuit board, and socket were removed from the housing. This reduced the overall size of the light tremendously. From the circuit board, I desoldered the original power input wires. Then I soldered about 4' of AC wiring with a plug at the end of it. Now the unit can be plugged directly into a timer and regular AC outlet. The solder points circled in red in the picture are the desoldered power input wiring locations. Another modification was done to the "light-sensor" found on the unit. The design of the light is to be capable of turning itself ON at dusk and OFF at dawn. However, this will interfer with the operation via a timer. In order to make it work, the easiest solution is to put a piece of small black electric tape to cover the sensor. This way, the circuit will think it is night always and completes the circuit at all time.
|